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posted by 2fass240us on Aug 4

At this point I’m more than halfway through the steps in the last post, having removed the intake manifold and installed the Tomei oil block. I realized Monday night that I needed to place a fitting order to keep the build going, and called up British-American Transfer (BAT Inc.). While I could get some of these fittings locally, I could not find all of them and the prospect of driving around to get some of them AND paying for shipping for the remainder was not an appealing one. Yeah, it’s great to live in Racing Land, but not so great when you need oddball fittings or metric pieces. Within 5 minutes I had confirmed availability and placed my order for the following:

1. P/N 816-10 -> -10AN male : 1/2″ NPT male fittings, black -> 2 @ $4.90 each
2. 920-10-12 -> -10AN male : -12ORB (o-ring boss) male, black -> 2 @ $12.70 each
3. BSM3PT -> 1/8″BSP male : 1/8″ NPT male, steel, cadmium-plated -> 1 @ $3.50
4. 900110 -> -10AN female/female coupling -> 1 @ $9.15
5. BSM4PT -> 1/4″ BSP male : 1/8″ NPT male -> 1 @ $2.50
6. 910-2 -> 1/8″ NPT female/female coupling -> 1 @ $2.50

Items 1 - 4 are for the oil cooler setup: #1 is the fittings for the oil cooler core and #2 is for the Canton-Mecca filter housing, as it was designed for -12 ORB fittings. This is a plus, as it allows me to retain this piece if I choose when swapping in a V8 down the road. I actually have the -12ORB : -12AN fittings and could’ve purchased a -12AN female : -10AN male part to ave some money over the above, but that ’s two more possible failure (leak) points. Item 3 is for the oil block, to adapt to the NPT line to the oil pressure sender, and #4 is to connect the oil filter inlet to the check valve I purchased a few months ago.

Items 5 & 6 are an attempt to relocate my coolant temperature sender to the stock location that sends a signal to the instrument cluster. Since the stock gauge is about worthless, there are very few downsides. Some Nissan guys say that you could put the sender in the hose to the radiator as it will be the hottest point in the system, but this would involve splicing a ring into the current silicone hose, a move that I’m not altogether fond of although I do need to remove some length from it. At the end of the day, it boils down to reducing leak points and complexity, and I think the stock location is a great one if for no other reason than its redundancy coupled with the aftermarket gauge.

Once I have these fittings in place and torqued down, I will take measurements to determine line length. Unfortunately, there are not -10 BMRS ProGold lines on eBay right now, so I will need to check every day or simply call the RaceProvenParts guy to see if he has anything not up for auction yet. Failing this, I will take a trip to BMRS and get new lines.